nzfw 2017 – lela jacobs
Lela Jacobs showed this year in Silo Six with all its concrete moodiness. We got to catch up with her before the beautiful show to ask her some questions about the show, her process and inspiration.
What season are you showing?
I will be showing AW18
What is the collection called?
– beingidlebeing –
Tell us about what inspired you with this collection?
To be idle was the inspiration – in the most positive use of the word.
We move so fast and do so much these days. I want to consider the idea of being idle as time to slow down, to reflect and not to always be onto the next or trying to mastermind the future. Its OK to not be an over achiever and learning this could be the biggest achievement you could have.
Also I’m very inspired by research and the practice of minimising embodied energy… developing locally made product… including the yarn. And garbing the people that live here. The world is full of many clothes and many designers and after much thought and consideration ……. localising manufacturing and consumerism is what minimising embodied energy for my practice is all about.
The decision to show at Silo Six echoes an earlier show you did several years ago but outside the space, what draws you to these buildings so much?
The concrete, the ocean, the spacial respect wynyard quarter delivers and also the history. My first show in Auckland 5 years ago was held at dusk in the big single open silo … this is a very nice feeling to be going back. This kind of considers being idle and reflection also.
Who did you use for your soundtrack?
Im getting there on this.
The fabrics and materials you use are almost as important as how you put them together, what have you used this season?
Im crushing on that Perino from wool yarns (nz) Its just so soft and warm and light. Also linen, silk and Japanese cotton paper yarns. and collaborations with Christopher Duncan (weaver) and Colleen Beherns (hand knitter) and Judy Clements (jeweller)
Who did you work with on the show?
I shot with my dear friend David James who I worked with a lot in my Wellington days.
I’m working with Keven Murphy and Colleen (Tony) for hair with Caitlin Lomas from MAC for makeup.
Hallertau, Love Bucket and Mamas Brew shop are supplying the refreshments and hosting the after party.
Plantae Skin care and Hollow tea are keeping all my VIP guests beautiful and calm for the week.
Skellerup is putting boots on our feet.
Courtney Perham, Meighan Ellis, Brigid Conner, Bear O’Sullivan and Ishna Jacobs are just the best team a women girl could ever wish for.
That whole experience of a Lela show – is just that, an experience. It is sound and feel and look. With the slowly moving models, haunting live music and the clothing, it was a completely multi-layered experience. This collection (as with other shows this week) had less black than we are used to seeing, but with caramels and linens featuring. But the amazing cobalt blue was the show stopper for me – a deep, dark blue. The huge possum/merino wool wraps where the most coveted item of the night – looking amazingly warm.
I am always intrigued by Lela, in the sense that I don’t think she sees herself as a designer, but rather a Maker. It shows in the approach to her clothing – she knows and understand the process with each piece, and each garment is so well thought out. It is in the way often each piece has a hand made element. How her soundtracks are created and her materials are crafted and garments made.