Kirkaldies was the first of the group shows for Wellington Fashion Week with four of their labels showing. Two of the labels had already shown at NZFW2012, Deryn Schmidt and Hailwood. Both are labels that know their client and count tailoring as a definite skill. The other two Mardee and Carlson I had not seen this winter.

You can tell a lot about a label by the cut of their trousers – and Deryn Schmidt certainly knows how to tailor a pair of trousers. She knows that her clients demand exacting tailoring and great fitting pieces. She sent cuffed, wide leg pants (Partition Pants) with a jacket (Level Jacket) in oatmeal wool down the runway – perfect work wear. She knows her client wants classic, well-fitting, flattering clothing for  WOMEN…

I loved the Wall Dress in red velvet with a smocking detail. And we saw the first of the fur detailing which was to be quite a theme running through the week. Loved the Amber colour that was used in silks and wools warmed up the navy.

Adrian Hailwood is an Auckland-based designer who has a very loyal following. Many of us remember his small shop on Ponsonby Rd where he first started selling his graphic tees.  There was no signage on the shop but we all knew where it was and his tees would sell out as quickly as he could put them on the racks. I still love his graphic prints – in fact I have his willow pattern from a previous collection framed and up on a wall at home. Graphics continue to feature strongly in his collection this season with the horse head (I would love that on a plain tee please) being worn under the capes, sleeveless jackets and warm layers on the catwalk.  He knows what his Wellington customers need! I love the 70’s inspired skirt skirts and dresses in gold knits and sand washed silk blouses.

Tanya Carlson has taken her inspiration from late 60s London, when the previous buttoned up sensibilities were starting to loosen up. This is a very sleek and tailored collection designed exclusively for Kirks and their Wellington clients. Working with wool blend suiting, she has created a sexy and simple look that moves from work to street with the minimum of fuss. The standouts were the textured silver prints in peplum tops and pants – loved the texture paired with black.

As with all the labels showing for Kirks, Mardee are New Zealand designed and manufactured. Created as a collection of separates, it is classic pieces given a twist with colour. With a collection of coloured wool coats, as well as separates – dresses, skirts and pants.  Mardee works hard to design pieces that are not necessarily high on the ‘trend’ scale, – which makes them keepers. But they are cost efficient, trans-seasonal and adaptable. I particularly liked the coats in aqua, red and apricot wool.