jimmy d – ss12/13

It is always an occasion to see a new collection by James Dobson’s Jimmy D label.  His incongruous mix of the gothic and darker themes, with soft delicate fabrics and forms has always fascinated me. And it isn’t just me. He has an incredible way of clashing androgynous darkness, and thoughtful beauty to make clothes that hang divinely on any body (male or female).  I have often felt that his lack of formal training is his strongest characteristic – it means he has no preconceived idea of how things ‘should’ be done.  At his installation opening of Rising Sun Melting Moon, Doris De Pont (NZ fashion Royalty) made just this point saying how much she loved what he was doing.  While others are simply showing clothing, the lines between clothing and art are thoroughly blurred on the evening.  You get a feel for what he is doing, and then wait to see how this will play itself out in the actual collection.  With the mixing of plastic, silk, sweat shirting, cotton and mesh – with a deep palette of black, blue, grey and a soft neon pink – nothing is ordinary.  The printed sweat shirting in grey marle and black mesh mess with your head – gothic prep. Strongly influenced by the city of Tokyo, with its huge contradictions – candy sweet Hello Kitty to the seedy underground clubs in the Kabukicho district.

The Araki 666 print is reference to cult film director Greg Araki (a longtime Jimmy D inspiration) whose films featuring bored and alienated teens (another strongly running theme in his work) in the plastic world of 90’s LA.  It is also a reference to taboo breaking artist Nobuyoshi Araki.

Jimmy D also continues the collaboration with Auckland artist Andrew McLeod with the gorgeous digital montage ‘Marble Reality’ screen-printed onto the tee shirting and the digitally printed onto the silk de chine tee. With striking make up from Amber D for M.A.C. nails  by Magic Tan and Beauty and styling by Chris Lorimer.  Hair was by Nic Apaapa for Structure.

Photographs by Michelle Weir

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